Cosmeceutical Applications

Hydration in Luxury Cosmetics

Many trials have demonstrated that Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) can be successfully reduced by using phospholipids as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations. And there is a dual effect: Because of their film forming properties, phospholipids “seal” the skin and the lamellar vesicles formed by them capture moisture. This moisture is then slowly released over a prolonged period of time. For this application hydrogenated phospholipids are particularly suitable, as enzymatic breakdown of their “protected” lipid molecules is delayed. Most top-of-the-line cosmetics today contain phospholipids for this function.

Another attractive ingredient for this product category is Ceramide. The stratum corneum, the outer layer of human skin, normally contains about 50 % of Ceramide. Together with cholesterol and saturated fatty acids, ceramide enhances skin rigidity by creating a water-impermeable barrier. This barrier also protects the skin against aggressive environmental influences (e.g. minor burns or scratches and some microorganisms). Ceramides are very suitable for anti-aging preparations, as the ceramide content of the stratum corneum is gradually decreasing with age and can be replenished by this ingredient.