Hydration in Luxury Cosmetics
Many trials have demonstrated that Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) can be successfully reduced by using phospholipids as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations. And there is a dual effect: Because of their film forming properties, phospholipids “seal” the skin and the lamellar vesicles formed by them capture moisture. This moisture is then slowly released over a prolonged period of time. For this application hydrogenated phospholipids are particularly suitable, as enzymatic breakdown of their “protected” lipid molecules is delayed. Most top-of-the-line cosmetics today contain phospholipids for this function.
Another attractive ingredient for this product category is Ceramide. The stratum corneum, the outer layer of human skin, normally contains about 50 % of Ceramide. Together with cholesterol and saturated fatty acids, ceramide enhances skin rigidity by creating a water-impermeable barrier. This barrier also protects the skin against aggressive environmental influences (e.g. minor burns or scratches and some microorganisms). Ceramides are very suitable for anti-aging preparations, as the ceramide content of the stratum corneum is gradually decreasing with age and can be replenished by this ingredient.